While many food stalls boast about the freshness of their dishes, Wattana Panich celebrates the age of its broth. This isn't just about longevity; it's a sophisticated culinary process. For the uninitiated, the ever-simmering pot, having brewed its contents for 50 years, might give rise to certain misconceptions. As Nattapong Kaweeantawong, the guardian of this culinary tradition and the third-generation owner, is eager to share: every evening, the pot is lovingly cleared, save for a portion. This reserved concoction forms the foundational stock of the next day’s creation, ensuring the integrity of the age-old flavors while blending with the new.
Credits: Stephan Maritz
A recipe for 50-year-old soup
The broth's allure lies not just in its age but in the myriad of flavors dancing in harmony. It's a symphony of exotic Chinese herbs, garlic, cinnamon, the spicy kick of black pepper, and the earthy undertones of cilantro root. This intricately crafted blend makes for a soup that is robust, yet delicate; familiar, yet surprising.
The soup's true star is its beef. Each day, approximately 150 pounds of beef are transformed through a meticulous 7-hour cooking process. Initially, the beefo gradually releases its flavors into the pot. After three hours, it's taken out, portioned, and then reintroduced for an additional four hours. This dual-phase process ensures the beef is not just tender, but also saturated with the broth's depth of flavors, making every bite a sublime experience.
Credits: Venus Foodholic
With no fixed recipe to anchor them, the makers at Wattana Panich rely heavily on their seasoned palates. Constant tasting is essential, with adjustments being made on the fly. It's this commitment to balance, to perfecting the taste daily, that sets the soup apart. It's never stagnant; each day, it evolves, subtly different from the day before, yet always holding onto its core essence.
A soup that became an icon
Dominating a busy Bangkok street, the gargantuan pot at Wattana Panich is hard to miss. Measuring an impressive 1.5 meters (five feet) across and standing 75 centimeters (two and a half feet) deep, it offers a sensory spectacle—succulent chunks of beef, steeping in the rich broth, under the watchful eyes of the Kaweeantawong family. It is an inviting site to behold.
Credits: Venus Foodholic
The rich tapestry of Wattana Panich's history began over six decades ago on the banks of the Chao Phraya river. Since then, its lore has seamlessly woven into the culinary mosaic of Bangkok.
Its taste has captivated not just the locals but has resonated with food enthusiasts globally. Whether it's the familiar comfort sought by regulars or the allure of a new culinary adventure for tourists, the soup offers a unique journey. From its rich, umami-packed base to its succulent beef chunks, this old soup still has what it takes. And much more.
